It should be done when symptoms (engine miss, rough idle, puffing noise in induction or exhaust) point to major engine problems.

Measure compression pressures of all cylinders with a compression gauge.

Then compare them with each other and with the manufacturer’s specifications for a new engine. This provides an accurate indication of engine condition.

When gauge pressure is lower than normal, pressure is leaking out of the combustion chamber.

Low engine compression can be caused by the following conditions:

BLOWN HEAD GASKET (head gasket ruptured).

PHYSICAL ENGINE DAMAGE (hole in piston, broken valve, etc.).

BURNED VALVED SEAT (cylinder head seat damaged by combustion).

BURNED VALVE (valve face damaged by combustion heat).

WORN RINGS OR CYLINDERS (part wear that prevents a ring-to-cylinder seal).

VALVE TRAIN TROUBLES (valve adjusted with insufficient clearance.

This keeps the valve from fully closing. Also, broken valve spring, seal, or retainer).

JUMPED TIMING CHAIN OR BELT (loose or worn chain or belt has jumped over teeth, upsetting valve timing).

To perform a compression test on a gasoline engine, use the following procedures:

Remove all spark plugs so the engine can rotate easily.

Note

Some manufacturers warn against performing a wet compression test on diesel engines. If too much oil is squirted into the cylinder, hydraulic lock and part damage may result, because oil does not compress in the small cylinder volume.

Compression readings for a gasoline engine should 3-46 run around 125 to 175 psi. The compression should not vary over 15 to 20 psi from the highest to the lowest cylinder. Readings must be within 10 to 15 percent of each other. Diesel engine compression readings average approximately 275 to 400 psi, depending on the design and compression ratio. Compression levels must not vary more than about 10 to 15 percent (30 to 50 psi). Look for cylinder variation during an engine compression check. If some cylinders have normal pressure readings and one or two have low readings, engine performance is reduced. If two adjacent cylinders read low, it might point to a blown head gasket between the two cylinders. If the compression pressure of a cylinder is low for the first few piston strokes and then increases to near normal, a sticking valve is indicated. Indications of valve troubles by compression test may be confirmed by taking vacuum gauge readings.

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Is the battery bad? Or is it simply discharged? To be sure, we need to measure the Specific Gravity of the electrolyte in each of its six cells. This test tells us the battery’s State of Charge.

As a battery discharges, the electrolyte contains more and more water and less acid. Since water is lighter than acid, the weight of electrolyte decreases as the battery discharges.

As the battery charges, the acid content of the electrolyte increases. Electrolyte in a charged battery weighs more by volume than electrolyte in a discharged battery.

We can use a hydrometer to test Specific Gravity and State of Charge in batteries with removable caps. Here’s how:

• Remove the battery caps. Check the electrolyte level. Make sure all cells are covered but not overfilled.
• Insert the hydrometer into each cell and draw electrolyte into the glass cylinder with the squeeze ball. Draw just enough acid into the cylinder to make the float rise. Hold the hydrometer vertical as each sample is drawn. Note the exact level at which the fluid level intersects the measurement scale on the float and record it.
• Repeat the test at each of the remaining cells. Record the reading for each cell. Compare readings to the chart on this page to determine state of charge.
• If the battery is below 75 percent state of charge, recharge it before load testing.

Temperature Correction

• If the temperature of the electrolyte is below 80 degrees F, subtract .004 (4 points) from the actual reading for each 10 degree change.
• Add 4 points for each 10 degree change above 80 degrees F.

For example, if the actual specific gravity reading is 1.265, but the electrolyte temperature is only 30 degrees F, then the true, corrected specific gravity is 1.245 (1.265-.020 = 1.245).

Why? Because the higher 1.265 specific gravity reading at 30 degrees F is the result of the increased density of colder electrolyte, not because the sample contains a higher concentration of acid.

Battery State of Charge – Refractometers

Refractometers are precision instruments that also measure the specific gravity of battery acid. (They can also measure antifreeze freeze protection for both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol antifreeze.)

Refractometer use is simple:

• Lift the clear sample window cover and place a drop of battery acid from one cell on the sample window.
• Close the sample window cover.
• Look through the eyepiece as you would look through a telescope.
• The point at which the light and dark areas of the measurement screen intersect the scale indicates the specific gravity of the sample.
• Record the reading and wipe the sample window clean before testing the next cell. Repeat the test for each of the remaining cells.

What Do Low Specific Gravity Readings Indicate?

Low specific gravity readings in all six cells tell us that the electrolyte in the cells is more water than acid, an indication that the battery is at a low state of charge. If the readings are uniformly low, however, there’s a reasonable chance that the battery may be all right once it is recharged.

Here are a few rules of thumb for interpreting specific gravity readings:

• The maximum allowable difference between the highest and lowest specific gravity reading is 50 points, whether you measure it with a hydrometer or refractometer. If the range between high and low readings is greater than 50 points, replace the battery.
• Abnormally high specific gravity readings (greater than 1.270) may indicate excess acid, possibly caused by someone adding acid, instead of water, to the battery.
• Specific gravity tests won’t identify a battery with an open or shorted cell.

Testing State of Charge in Sealed Batteries

The Open Circuit Voltage Test

If the battery has a sealed top, you cannot perform a specific gravity test to determine the battery state of charge since there is no way to take samples of the electrolyte.

To determine battery state of charge in sealed-top batteries, you must perform an Open Circuit Voltage test across the battery posts using an accurate digital voltmeter; analog voltmeters are not accurate enough for this test. Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) refers to voltage measured across the battery posts with no electrical loads turned on.

Adjust your digital multimeter to the 20 or 40 Volt SC scale and place the meter leads across the battery posts.

Take the voltage reading and compare it to the chart to the right. The chart combines specific gravity and OCV test standards.

There is a direct relationship between specific gravity and open-circuit voltage measured across the battery posts. Batteries below 75% of full charge must be recharged before performing a load test.

What State of Charge Can Tell Us

State of Charge tells us if the battery is sufficiently charged to undergo load testing. It does not tell us if the battery can deliver both voltage and current at the same time. That’s what the load test is for. Once it is determined that the battery state of charge is 75% or greater, the load test measures the battery’s ability to provide POWER. Power is measured as wattage, or volts multiplied by amps.

As batteries age and deteriorate, call material degrades or falls off and plates become less powerful. A battery that passes the specific gravity or open-circuit voltage tests may still have a hard time maintaining its voltage when electrical loads consume large amounts of current.

This is very important, so we will repeat it: Batteries must provide power.They must provide enough electrical current to operate all vehicle loads and still maintain the correct voltage.

An engine should be properly diagnosed before it is disassembled for two reasons. First, to determine that a repair is really necessary. And, secondly to diagnosis the exact location of the problem while the engine is still intact. Normally, main bearing inspection requires removal of the Oil Pan(Sump).

As shown below, bearings can fail for a variety of reasons. Oil starvation and dirt are the major reasons for bearing failure. Problems in other engine components, such as bent or twisted crankshafts or connecting rods, or out-of-shape journals, can also cause bearings to wear irregularly.

Inspect your bearings for these conditions.

Common forms of bearing distress.

A loose crankshaft main bearing produces a dull, steady knock, while a loose crankshaft thrust bearing produces a heavy thump at irregular intervals. The thrust bearing noise might only be audible on very hard acceleration. Both of these bearing noises are usually caused by worn bearings or crankshaft journals. To correct the problem, replace the bearings or crankshaft.

Main Bearing Service

Out-of-Round Journal Wear

When the engine is first turned over after the engine has not been run for a period of time, here is little or no lubrication between the crank and the lower main bearings. The result is that he lower main bearing wears excessively and the main journals wear out-of-round. When the main bearing that is farthest from the oil pump shows more wear than the other main bearings, a dry start condition is indicated. This means that the engine was probably revved before oil had filled the system. This problem occurs most often in cold weather.

Sometimes, all the lower main bearings will be worn except for the front bearing. This bearing usually wears less on the bottom because of the upward tension of the fan belt. Excessive belt tension can cause wear on the upper front main bearing. Connecting rod journals also wear out-of-round, wearing on their top sides because of excessive loads during the power stroke. Crankshaft main bearing journals wear out-of-round. Excessive loads cause the oil film to break down, resulting in wear. Excess loads can be caused by lugging the engine or by abnormal combustion.

NOTE

Lugging occurs when the load on the engine is greater than the rpm needed to develop enough horsepower to pull the load.

Measure the rod journal in a horizontal and vertical direction to check for out-of-round wear. Crank journals are miked (measured with a micrometer) at 90° angles to check for out-of-round wear, which should be less than 0.0005″.

Tapered Wear

Rod journals sometimes suffer taper wear due to misalignment of the connecting rod.

The presence of uneven rod bearing wear, and sometimes piston skirt wear usually indicates taper. Connecting rods should be checked for misalignment whenever uneven wear is found.

Thrust Bearing Wear

The thrust bearing surface that faces the rear of the engine sometimes shows excessive wear.

One side of this thrust bearing is burned.

Most thrust bearings have concaved reliefs cut into them to provide lubrication. Under normal conditions, the thrust surface is only under load when the clutch pedal is depressed or if the automatic transmission torque converter is under a load. Thrust bearing wear and failure occurs when the load is continuous, such as when there.

To measure the bearings for wear, taper and out-of-roundness:

• Using a service manual, look up the specifications for standard crankshaft size and tolerances for normal wear.
• Check the crankshaft and use proper procedures to clean it before beginning the measurement process.

Using the proper size outside micrometer, check the number 1 main bearing journal twice at each end of the journal, once horizontal to the crankshaft and once vertical.

Measuring the connecting rod journal with a micrometer.

• If these measurements are different than the vehicle’s specifications, the crankshaft main bearing journal is out-of-round or tapered and the crankshaft must be machined before it is installed in the engine.
• If any of the main bearing journals are out of specification, all main bearing journals should be ground to the next undersize. This ensures that the journals are on the same centerline. Another alternative is to build up the crankshaft journal using special welding techniques, then grinding the journal to its original size.

NOTE

If the main bearing or connecting rod journals have pits, yet measure within specifications, polish the worst journal. After the journal is clean of pits, re-measure it. If it is still within specifications, the crankshaft will not require grinding.

Check for out-of-roundness and taper.

• Repeat these steps for each of the remaining main bearing journals.
• Measure the number 1 connecting rod journal twice at each end of the journal, once horizontal to the crankshaft and once vertical.
• If these measurements are different, the crankshaft connecting rod journal is out-of-round or tapered, and the crankshaft must be machined before it is reinstalled in the engine.
• Repeat these steps for each of the remaining connecting rod journals.

NOTE

Not all do-it-yourselfers will have the tools necessary to perform these jobs. They can be completed in a machine shop.

Journal Grinding

The manufacturer often applies a hardening treatment to the journals to protect them from wear. However, even with hardened surfaces, the bearing journals can become scored or scuffed due to improper lubrication, excessive heat, contamination, or improper installation. It may be possible to restore the journal surface by grinding them to a standard undersize. Grinding of the crankshaft journals is done to correct any of the following conditions:

• Out-of-round
• Taper
• Improper oil clearances
• Scratches, scoring, or nicks
• Damaged thread surfaces

Before grinding the journals, attempt to determine the hardness of the journal. Hardness values are expressed using the Rockwell C (Rc) scale. Electronic hardness gauges are available to determine the journal’s Rc value. Nitral acid etching is another method of determining the hardness of the journals. Generally, crankshafts with fillet-hardened journals should have values above 36 Rc. Crankshafts without fillet-hardened journals should have values above 30 Rc.

Crankshaft journals hardened using Tuff riding or Melonite treatments (both are forms of salt bath nitriding) cannot be machined. These processes are too thin, and machining the journals will remove all hardening. To determine if these hardening processes were used on the crankshaft, file a small portion of the counterweight using a medium-fine mill file. If metal can be removed under light filing pressures, the crankshaft has not been treated using these methods.

As with most machining operations, when grinding the crankshaft, do not remove any more metal than necessary. Generally, journals are ground to under sizes of 0.010, 0.020, or 0.30 inch. not all rod journals need to be the same undersize. It may be necessary to machine only one rod journal to an undersized while the others remain standard. However, it is recommended that the main bearing journals be machined to the same undersize to be sure the centerline is on the same plane.

Whenever the crankshaft journals are undersize, it is a good practice to stamp the size of the rod and main journals on the face of the first counterweight. If the main bearing journals are ground to different under sizes than the rod journals, list the main journals first. For example, if the main journals are undersized 0.020 inch and the rod journals are undersized 0.030 inch, the marking will be made as 0.20-0.30. This will alert the next technician rebuilding the engine (or using the crankshaft) that the crankshaft has been undersized.

Polishing

The machining of the journals and seal surfaces of the crankshaft leaves these surfaces too rough to run bearings or seals on. After the journals are ground, they must be polished to remove this roughness. Generally, the crankshaft is rotated in the opposite direction during the polishing procedures than it was run during the grinding procedure.

Polishing is not a final sizing operation. The maximum amount removed by this procedure should not exceed 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm). The polishing procedure can be done while the crankshaft is attached to the grinding machine using a portable polisher. In addition, a special crankshaft polishing machine can be used or the journals can be polished by hand lapping.

Both types of machines work similarly, using a belt sander-type setup to polish the journals. The crankshaft is rotated and the belt is run back and forth across the journal. Continue to polish the journal until it is smooth and shiny. A surface of 32 in. on the bearing journals and 15 uin. on the bearing journals and 15 uin. On the sealing surface is usually desired. Hand lapping is done using a piece of emery cloth wrapped around the journal. Start with a medium grit cloth and finish with a 320-grit cloth. A finish of 15 uin. is usually obtained by hand lapping.

After the journals and sealing diameters are polished, the blend radius of the oil holes must be deburred and rounded. Polishing the oil holes prevents early bearing failure by removing the sharp corners. This operation can be done using a die grinder or jeweler’s rouge.

When the polishing procedure is completed, the crankshaft must be thoroughly cleaned any residue from the grinding and polishing procedures left on the crankshaft or in the oil passages will quickly destroy the journals.

Building Up Crankshaft Journals

Another available option for reconditioning the crankshaft journals is to build up the journal area, then machine it to standard size. This process is used when the journal is worn or damaged so excessively that no undersized bearing can be used to correct oil clearance. There are two common methods used to build up the journals: chromium plating and submerged arc welding.

The process of chromium plating electrically plates hard chromium onto the bearing journal surfaces. After the plating is built up to the required amount, the journals are ground to restore the original size.

A crankshaft welder uses a wire feed-type welding system using flux to displace oxygen. Before the beads are welded to the journal, the journals are ground to remove impurities in the surface area. Carbon plugs are tapped into the oil passages to prevent them from being filled.

The crankshaft is attached to the welding machine between two chunks and is rotated while the weld bead is spiraled around the journal. The process continues until the weld bead has worked across the entire width of the journal. After the welding process is completed, the slag is removed and the journal is ground. Welding to build up the journals provides a very hard surface.

Main Bearing Replace

Main bearings are replaced with the crankshaft in the engine using a tool installed in the oil feed hole in the journal. The bearings must be rolled out on the side opposite the bearing locating lug, or tang.

Main bearings can be rolled out and new bearings rolled back in. If the special tools are not available, you can make one out of a cotter pin.

When selecting new main bearings, make sure they match the crankshaft journal diameters and main bearing bores. If the crankshaft has been ground undersize, the main bearings will also have to be undersize. Similarly, if the housing bores have been machined oversize by align boring or align honing, the bearings must take up this space. Bearing size is usually marked on the bearing box and on the back of the bearing.

When the bearings are ready to be installed in the main bearing bores, make sure the bore is clean and dry before installing the bearing halves into place. Use a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe the bearing back and bore surface.

Put the new main bearing inserts into each of the main bearing caps and into the bearing bores in the cylinder block housings.

Place the bearing inserts into the bore; make sure the locating lugs fit into their recess.

Make sure all holes align. The backs of the main bearing inserts should never be oiled or greased. Place the crankshaft in the block on the main bearing inserts and arrange the main bearing caps in the correct order and direction over the crankshaft. Follow the factory markings or use those made during disassembly.

The next step is to measure the oil clearance between the crankshaft and the main bearing. Proper lubrication and cooling of the bearing depend on correct crankshaft oil clearances. Scored bearings, worn crankshaft, excessive cylinder wear, stuck piston rings, and worn pistons can result from too small an oil clearance. If the oil clearance is too great, the crankshaft might pound up and down, overheat, and weld itself to the insert bearings.

Plastigage is fine, plastic string used to measure the oil clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft. One side of the plastigage’s package has stripes for inch measurements, the other side has stripes for metric measurements. The string can be purchased to measure different clearance ranges. Usually, only the smallest clearance range is necessary for reassembly work.

Tighten the Main Caps

For a five-main bearing block, the torque sequence is 1-4-3-2-5.

NOTE

As each main cap is torqued down, check to see that the crank continues to turn easily.

After the rear cap is removed, check the rear seal drag. Some manufacturers give a torque specification for the amount of effort required to turn the crank with the damper bolt in an assembled engine.

Align the Thrust Bearing Halves

Torque all bearing caps except the thrust main. Its halves should be aligned before torquing.

Misaligned thrust halves could eliminate end play. This is done by prying on the crankshaft while the thrust main is still loose.

Checking crankshaft end play: With a feeler gauge & With a dial indicator.

Bearing Types

Bearings are used to carry the critical loads created by crankshaft movement. They are a major wear item in the engine and require close inspection. Main bearings support the crankshaft journals. Connecting rod bearings are installed between the crankshaft and connecting rods.

Modern crankshaft bearings are known as insert bearings. There are two basic designs of insert bearings.

Full-round and split insert bearings.

A full round (one-piece) bearing is used in bores that allow the shaft’s journals to be inserted into the bearing, such as a camshaft. A split (two halves) bearing is used where the bearing must be assembled around the journal with the bearing housing being of two parts also, including a cap that holds the assembly together. Crankshaft bearings are typically the split type.

Many crankshafts are fitted with a main bearing that has flanged sides. This type bearing is typically called a thrust bearing and is used to control any horizontal movement or endplay of the shaft. The flange bearing is used in the thrust position of the block. Most thrust main bearings are doubled flanged.

Some late-model engines do not use separate main bearing caps; instead they are fitted with a lower engine block assembly.

Bearing Spread

Most main and connecting rod bearings are manufactured with spread. Bearing spread means that the distance across the outside parting edges of the bearing insert is slightly greater than the diameter of the housing bore. To position a bearing half that has spread, it must be snapped into place by a light forcing action.

Spread requires a bearing to be lightly snapped into place.

This assures positive positioning against the inside of the bore and helps to keep the bearings in place during assembly.

Bearing Crush

Each half of a split bearing is made so that it is slightly greater than an exact half. This can be seen quite easily when a half is snapped into place in its housing. The parting faces extend a little beyond the seat.

Crush assures good contact between the bearing and the housing.

This extension is called crush. When the two bearing halves are assembled and the housing cap tightened, the crush sets up a radial pressure on the bearing halves so they are forced tightly into the housing bore.

Bearing Locating Devices

Engine bearings must be provided with some means to keep them from rotating or shifting sideways in their housings. Many different methods have been used by manufacturers to keep the bearings in place. The most common way is the use of a locating lug. As shown below, this consists of a protrusion at the parting face of the bearing. The lug fits into a slot in the bearing’s bore.

The locating lug fits into the slot in the housing.

Oil Grooves

Providing an adequate oil supply to all parts of the bearing surface, particularly in the load area, is an absolute necessity. In many cases, this is accomplished by the oil flow through the bearing oil clearance. In other cases, however, engine operating conditions are such that this oil distribution method is inadequate. When this occurs, some type of oil groove must be added to the bearing. Some oil grooves are used to assure an adequate supply of oil to adjacent engine parts by means of oil throw-off.

WHEN TURNING LEFT,keep to the left side of the road you are leaving as well as the one you are entering.

WHEN TURNING RIGHT,move to the right of the road you are leaving and arrive near the left side of road you are entering.

SLOW DOWN, at road junctions, intersections, pedestrian crossings and road corners and wait until you are sure of a clear passage ahead. If you are entering a main road where traffic is not being regulated, give way to vehicles passing on your right.

HAND SIGNALS, are necessary to show your intention to other road users. When slowing down, extend your right arm palm down and swing it up and down; when stopping, raise your forearm vertically outside the vehicle; when turning right or changing lane to the right hand side, extend your right arm straight out, palm to the front; when turning left or changing lane to the left hand side, extend your right arm and rotate it in an anti-clockwise direction.

DIRECTION INDICATORS,Better use directions indicators with hands signals and both in case of any emergency.

DO NOT DRIVE, on a one way road except in the direction permitted. Reversing into a one way road in the wrong direction, is also prohibited.

DO NOT CROSS THE YELLOW LINE, dividing the road even while overtaking. On roads with defined lanes use appropriate indicator signal before changing lanes.

DO NOT CROSS THE STOP LINE, painted on the road when you stop at a road junction or intersection or a pedestrian crossing. In no case should your stationary vehicle project, beyond this line.

WEARING A HELMET FOR TWO WHEELER DRIVERS,is a statutory requirement. The helmet must conform to the ISI standards and should bear the ISI mark. Helmet works as a shield for your head in case of a mishap. It is designed for your individual safety and not as a cover to avoid legal prosecution. For complete safety tie the strap properly otherwise the helmet may slip from your head in case of an accident head injury. (Turban wearing Sikhs are exempted from using a helmet).

CARRY ONLY ONE PILLION RIDER, on your two wheeler. You must carry the rider only on the back seat. Do not allow any rider to sit or stand in front of you (not even children). It is not only illegal but often becomes dangerous because sudden braking may throw out the child or person hitting the vehicle in front. It is a violation of law to carry goods on your two wheeler as the rider may lose balance easily leading to accidents.

DO NOT PARK, at or near a road crossing or on top of a hill or on a footpath; too near a traffic light or pedestrian crossing; on a main road or a road with heavy traffic; in front of or opposite another parked vehicle to cause obstruction; on roads that have a white line; near a bus- stop, school or hospital entrance; right next to a traffic sign thereby blocking it for others; at the entrance of a building; near a fire hydrant thereby blocking access to it; where parking is specifically prohibited.

THE REGISTRATION MARK, of the vehicle should be clear, legible and visible at all times. Do not load the motor vehicle so as to obstruct the tail lights or any other lights or marks required on the vehicle for its safety.
SHARING THE ROAD

ALWAYS GIVE WAY TO PEDESTRIANS if there is danger to their safety. Take extra care if they are children or elderly people. There are some obvious places and times where you should take extra care like shopping centres, busy intersections, schools, parks and residential areas where children and others have a greater need of crossing the road. Also, in wet weather, people may hurry and take risks. At night remember that pedestrians may not always be aware how hard it can be for you to see them. Be careful when approaching parked cars or buses. It is difficult to see or anticipate people crossing from behind them. Slow down at pedestrian crossings or intersections, specially if you are turning.

NEVER INDULGE IN ZIG-ZAG DRIVING, specially on two wheelers. It is not only dangerous for you but is a danger for others also. Motorcycles have a high accelerating power. Don’t misuse it. Don’t overtake when it is not necessary. Remember, at higher speed the slightest collision can prove to be fatal.

CYCLISTS AND MOTORCYCLISTS have the same rights and responsibilities as drivers of larger vehicles. When overtaking cyclists, leave at least one metre clearance. Don’t try to share the lane with them. Cycle riders are entitled to ride two abreast. Also, when you are about to alight from your car, check for bicycle riders or scooterist to avoid opening your door in their path. Children on cycles can also be unpredictable. Take extra care of them.

HOW TO STOP QUICKLY
The best way to stop quickly is to drive slowly. Sometimes, unexpected things happen quickly. A driver can pull out of a side street without warning. A pedestrian can suddenly step out from behind a parked car. A truck can drop some of its load. A scooterist or motorcyclist could hit a pot-hole and fall off. If you are travelling too fast, it may be difficult to avoid an accident.

RIGHT OF WAY 

AT SOME CROSSROADSthere are no traffic lights or signs. When you come to one of these intersections you must give way to vehicles traveling in the intersection on your right.

ON MOUNTAINS AND STEEP ROADS, the vehicle driving uphill must be given the right of way by vehicles coming downhill. If the road is not sufficiently wide, pull your vehicle to a stop on the side of the road and allow the driver going uphill to proceed first.

LIGHTS HAVE FAILED-You must also give way to the traffic on your right at intersections where the lights have failed.

GIVE WAY TO PEDESTRIANS at crossings that are not regulated.

DRIVING TIPS

DRIVING IN FOG
Drive slow. Always drive at a speed that allows you to stop with in the distance of you visibility.
Always use dipped headlights or front fog lamps. Use your wind screen wipers & keep cleaning the wind screens and side glasses.

Never hang onto the lights of the vehicle

it only gives the false sense of security.
Allow more time for your journey and never be in a hurry.

Do not increase your speed to get away from a vehicle which may be closely following you behind.

DRIVING IN VERY HOT WEATHER
Inspect the tyres for overheating and tread separation every 100 Km. If a tyre is too hot to touch, stop for some time and allow it cool off

Under high temperatures, the tread may come off the retreated tyres and may cause a tyre burst.
Air pressure increases with temperature. Do not try to remove air, as the tyre pressure will be too low when the tyre cools off.

Ensure enough engine oil and water in the radiator. They help to keep the engine cool.

Watch for those road sections where tar bleeds in heat. Drive slowly in these areas, as they are very slippery.

DRIVING AT NIGHT
All lamps must be kept clean and headlamps correctly set so as to provide maximum illumination without dazzling other drivers.

Drive at controlled speed, so that you are in a position to stop well within the distance.

Give a quick flash to warn the driver while overtaking.

Once on the road, clean the windscreens and glasses as often as possible.
In rainy conditions ensure that wipers are in working conditions.

HILL DRIVING
Check brakes before commencing journey, always change to the correct gear before climbing up or coming down a section.

Never switch off engine or put the gear in neutral with a view to save fuel or cool the engine,it is very dangerous.

Always give way to a heavy/loaded vehicle and upcoming traffic.

Follow all traffic signs and use horn at all blind corners.

Never attempt to overtake near the bends or at the crest of a hill.
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]]> http://www.hcvservice.com/2010/02/general-driving-rules/feed/ 0 http://www.hcvservice.com/2010/01/7-things-to-do-before-purchasing-automobile-insurance/ http://www.hcvservice.com/2010/01/7-things-to-do-before-purchasing-automobile-insurance/#comments Tue, 26 Jan 2010 15:24:25 +0000 Kasinathan G http://www.hcvservice.com/?p=996

If you need to purchase automobile insurance, or have a policy coming up for renewal, here are a few things you should keep in mind. I want to give you seven things you should do before you actually spend your money.

These are seven things you should do before purchasing automobile insurance.

• First of all you need to determine how much coverage you actually need. Since over half of the cost of car insurance is to cover personal liability you have to pay attention to this area first.Personal liability includes coverage for you, your passengers, and third parties. The other percentage of your car insurance is to cover damage to your vehicle.

 Procedure:

1. Remove the Wheel ends and Drive head from Housing.

1. Clean the Housing inside and outside 3” away from the area to be welded by removing the dust / Oil / Paint.

1.  Remove the Cover weld from the cracked area of Housing

• Apply an anti- spatter compound on the housing area around the weld that will be cut. If you do not have an anti –spatter compound, cover the axle housing with a nonflammable cloth.

• Attach the ground cable as near as possible to the cracked weld area and only to components welded on the axle, such as a housing spring pad. Do not attach the ground cable at a suspension spring, U-bolt or at a point that places a wheel bearing between the ground connection and the weld area.

• Gouge approximately four grooves into the housing–to-cover weld crack area the full length of the crack plus an additional one inch (25.4mm) past each end or side of the crack.

• After gouging is completed, remove any thick amounts of weld material that remain on the housing and cover with rough grinding.

               CAUTION

Replace the housing if you find cracks in the housing material or cover material. Do not repair weld cracks in the housing material or cover material. Damage to components can result.

• If the crack in the weld extends by more than 1/3 of the circumference of the cover, 20 inches (508mm): The housing must be replaced.

WELDING

a)     Outside of the cover to the housing

              Position the housing for a flat weld by tilting it 45 degrees forward.

 b)     Inside of the cover to the housing

Position the housing for a flat weld by rotating it 180 degrees from the operating position it would be in under the vehicle. The oil drain hole will be at the top position and the center line of the housing must be vertical.

1. Use suitable weld wire electrodes when you weld. Suitable weld wire electrodes include either BS EN 499-E42 2B32 H5 or BS EN 440-G422MGSi (American welding society equivalents E7018 and ER7063, respectively).

1. Lay a full fillet in a single pass, if possible, to the end where the damaged weld was removed plus one-inch (25.4mm) past the end (into the old weld)

1. When multiple passes are required to obtain the correct single-flare bevel weld size, remove all slag and flux from the last weld before applying the next weld.

1. Clean and inspect the final weld.

1. Install the drive head, Wheel ends on Axle Housing and fill axle with the specified type and amount of lubricant. Refer to vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.

Diesel Treatment

Harmful deposits build up around the diesel injectors which can reduce the vehicle’s performance.

Regular use of Diesel Treatment helps to,

• Keep injectors clean.
• Reduce exhaust emissions + engine noise.
• Restore performance.
• Increase fuel economy.

Octane Booster

• Increases the cetane number in diesel by up to 2 numbers.
• Maximises performance and acceleration.
• Provides needed lubrication for low sulphur fuel.
• Cleans injectors and removes deposits in the fuel system.
• Suitable for all diesel engines.

Diesel Advanced Fuel System Cleaner

It has a concentrated formula which has been specially developed to keep injectors clean and to provide needed lubrication for low sulphur fuels.

Advanced Fuel System Cleaner helps :

• Increase fuel economy.
• Restore power and acceleration.
• Reduce emissions.
• Protect from corrosion.

Use every 3000 miles.

Oil Treatment

It has been technically formulated to improve the performance of regular and syntheitic engine oil to protect the car’s engine.

• Improves oil performance.
• Cuts oil consumption.
• Combats build-up of sludge and acids during normal running.
• Extends life of oil.
• Protects engine whilst reducing noise, exhaust smoke and oil leaks.
• Suitable for Petrol and Diesel engines, with regular or synthetic oil.

Engine Flush

Engine Flush cleans the whole engine internally, combating engine wear and improving performance.

• Removes harmful sludge.
• Cleans and frees valves and piston rings.
• Combats engine wear. Neutralise corrosive acids.
• Suitable for Petrol and Diesel engines, with regular or synthetic oils.

Stop Smoke

Oil burning and smoke can occur particularly in older cars.

• Reduces exhaust smoke and oil consumption.
• Reduces engine wear. Increases oil viscosity.
• Seals gaps between worn engine parts.
• Reduces engine noise.
• Suitable for Petrol and Diesel engines, with regular or synthetic oils.

Stop Oil Leak

After time and under normal driving conditions the engine seals and gaskets can become dry and brittle thereby causing oil leaks.

• Conditions and rejuvenates gaskets.
• Improves oil viscosity.
• Suitable for Petrol and Diesel engines, with regular or synthetic oils.

Benefits on Engine using Fuel Oil Additive

1. Sludge formation is prevented.
2. Existing sludge is broken into minute particles and burnt.
3. Clogging of fuel lines and filters is prevented.
4. Atomization of fuel is improved.
5. Deposits on burner nozzles are eliminated.
6. Flame is stable, hotter and in the required direction.
7. Combustion is catalytically improved.
8. Soot formation is reduced.
9. Fireside deposits are eliminated.
10. Heat transfer is improved.
11. Vanadium and sodium in the fuel are neutrallized.
12. Formation of sulphur trioxide is prevented and corrosion is inhibited.
13. Stack temperature is reduced.
14. Carbon monoxide, oxygen and unburnt hydrocarbons in the stack gases are minimized while carbon dioxide in stack gases is increased.
15. Frequent cleaning, maintenance and overhaul are not required.
16. Fuel consumption is reduced by 4-6%.

Petrol Treatment

Harmful deposits build up on the carburettor and in the fuel system which can reduce the vehicle’s performance.

• Clean carburettors and fuel system.
• Reduce exhaust emissions.
• Restore performance.
• Increase fuel economy.

Petrol Injector Cleaner

Harmful deposits build up around the fuel injectors which can reduce the vehicle’s performance.

Regular use of cleaner helps to,

• Clean injectors.
• Reduce exhaust emissions.
• Restore performance.
• Increase fuel economy.

Petrol Advanced Fuel System Cleaner

Cleaner has a concentrated formula which has been specially developed to clean injectors and to protect the fuel system against corrosion.

Petrol Advanced Fuel System Cleaner helps,

• Increase fuel economy.
• Restore power and acceleration.
• Reduce emissions.
• Protect from corrosion.

Use every 3000 miles.

Lead Replacement Multidose

Running a car developed to run on leaded petrol on unleaded fuel can seriously damage the engine and reduce power.

• Protect and lubricate soft valve seats.
• Maintain peak engine performance.

Octane Booster

• Maximises performance and acceleration.
• Increases the Octane number of regular unleaded petrol by up to 1.5 numbers.
• Cleans injectors and removes deposits in the fuel system.
• Suitable for all petrol engines.

INSPECTION RECORD

JOB NO………………..

DATE………………….

1) Chassis No……………                          2) Engine No………………………………..

3) Vehicle Reg. No…………….                 4) Kms………………………………………

5) Nature of failure………………………………………………………………………..

6) Kms covered after last rebuild…………………………………………………………

01. CYLINDER BLOCK

Block No…………………

02. CRANK SHAFT

Crank shaft no……………………….

03. CONNECTING ROD

04. CYLINDER HEAD

05. ROCKER LEVER/PEDASTALS/TAPPETS PUSH ROD

06. CAMSHAFT

07. VIBRATION DAMPER

08. PISTON PIN

09. OIL FILTER HEAD

10. OIL COOLER

11. OIL PUMP

12. WATER PUMP

13. FAN HUB

14. BELT TENSIONER

15. THERMOSTAT

16. TURBO CHARGER

17. EXHAUST MANIFOLD